Today was all about trading the paved roads for the raw, rugged beauty of the North Coast and the West End. My first stop was Emu Bay, which—if I’m being honest—wasn’t quite the highlight I expected. The only real “discovery” there was a pair of “lost soles” (literally, someone’s shoe soles) left behind on the sand!
Luckily, things took a massive turn for the better as I pushed on toward Western River Cove. I’d heard people rave about this spot, and the journey there did not disappoint. The RedSands camper really earned its keep on the way; I spent kilometers winding over hills and through deep valleys on steep, unsurfaced roads. The views were outstanding. When you finally arrive, the sea is visible, but the beach stays hidden until you follow the stream on foot. Suddenly, the narrow valley opens up, revealing a stunning, secluded cove. It was the perfect spot to stop and enjoy lunch.
Feeling recharged, I headed for the Cape Borda Lightstation. Perched 150 meters above sea level since 1858, this lighthouse is uniquely short—because of the height of the cliff, it didn’t need to be tall to be seen from miles away.
As the sun began to dip, I made the long trek to my home for the night: West Bay Campground (4WD only) in Flinders Chase National Park. To get here, I had to navigate over 50 kilometers of dirt roads, but it was worth every bump to reach what has to be the most remote campsite on the island.
There’s zero mobile reception here, and while you can’t see the ocean from the camp, you can definitely hear it. The sound of high waves crashing into West Bay is a constant reminder of the sheer power of nature. Aside from the surf and the rustle of the leaves, it’s pin-drop quiet. I took a walk at dusk and could hear the bush coming alive with rustling sounds—if you’re quick, you can catch a glimpse of a kangaroo scampering into the shadows.
It’s just me and the wilderness tonight. Good night, and see you next time!
