I’ve officially reached the easternmost point of the Australian mainland: Byron Bay. This place has such a distinct evolution. It started as a quiet haunt for longboarders in the 60s who discovered the perfect breaks at The Pass and Watego’s. By the time the famous Aquarius Festival hit nearby Nimbin in ’73, Byron’s reputation as a happy, alternative hippie town was set in stone. Today, the “penniless surfers” have been joined by a much flashier crowd, but that iconic, laid-back soul is still pulsing underneath the upscale boutiques.
Naturally, I couldn’t stay on dry land. I managed to get out for two surf sessions—one at Clarkes Beach and another at Seven Mile Beach near Lennox Head. After tackling the waves at Seven Mile, I headed for a soak in Lake Ainsworth.
This isn’t your average lake; it’s a freshwater basin stained a deep, dark tea color by the surrounding paperbark trees. The tannins are legendary among locals—the water is said to be a natural “fountain of youth” with rejuvenating properties for your skin and hair. I’m not sure if I look any younger, but it was incredibly refreshing!
The final adventure was a descent into the Nguthungulli Julian Rocks Nature Reserve. I dived at a site called “The Nursery,” which is usually a paradise for divers of all levels. It’s an underwater metropolis for over 500 species of fish and a favorite hangout for Green, Hawksbill, and Loggerhead turtles.
Admittedly, the ocean didn’t give me its best day—visibility was capped at about 5 meters—but that didn’t stop the show. I came face-to-face with several Wobbegongs (the masters of disguise known as carpet sharks) and found some vibrant Nudibranchs clinging to the rocks. Even with the murky water, being down there feels like visiting another planet.
Next stop: Continuing the journey north—where the water gets even warmer!
