The time finally came to trade the salt air for the desert dust. I said my goodbyes to the coast and pointed the RedSands rig inland, embarking on the long trek toward the heart of the Outback. My route took me through the rugged landscapes of Charters Towers, Richmond, and Mount Isa, crossing from Queensland into the Northern Territory. At Threeways, I finally swung south off the Barkly Highway and joined the legendary Stuart Highway.
One of the absolute highlights of this stretch was visiting Karlu Karlu, also known as the Devils Marbles. This is a deeply sacred site for the Kaytetye, Warumungu, Anmatyerre, and Alyawarre peoples. While “Karlu Karlu” literally translates to “round object,” the name carries a much heavier weight in Aboriginal tradition. These massive, balancing granite boulders are said to be the eggs of the Rainbow Serpent from the Dreamtime.
Much of the ceremony and story surrounding this place remains secret knowledge, but it’s a powerful experience to stand among them, knowing the indigenous people believe Dreamtime beings still live in the caves beneath the stones. It’s a place that demands respect and a quiet moment of reflection.
The final push of this section brought me to Alice Springs. Sitting nearly 1,300 kilometers away from the nearest major cities (Adelaide or Darwin), Alice is the true “gateway” to the Outback. It was established in 1872 during the construction of the Trans-Australian Telegraph Line.
The name itself has a bit of a funny origin—surveyor William Whitfield Mills found a large pond here and mistook it for a permanent spring. He named it “Alice Springs” in honor of Alice Todd, the wife of his boss. In reality, it’s just a section of a riverbed that holds water longer than most after the heavy rains. Mistake or not, it’s become the ultimate oasis in the geographical center of Australia.
Next stop: It’s time to explore the MacDonnell Ranges and prepare for the big one—Uluru!
