I’ve officially traded the Outback for the vines! The Clare Valley is famous for its world-class Riesling, but it’s also a paradise for anyone who likes to explore on two wheels. I decided to give the RedSands rig a rest and rented a bike to tackle 50 km of the Riesling Trail.
The trail itself has a fantastic history; it follows the old Spalding railway line that opened back in 1918. Tragically, the Ash Wednesday bushfires of 1983 devastated the tracks, leading to the end of the rail era here. By the 90s, the steel bridges were gone, and the path was reborn as this incredible cycling route. It winds through rows of vines and golden paddocks, with plenty of “strategic” turnoffs for wineries, cafes, and pubs.
My main stop was Sevenhill Cellars, a place with a story that stretches all the way back to 16th-century Spain and the founding of the Jesuits. The first brothers arrived in Australia in the mid-1800s, fleeing religious persecution in Europe. They bought 100 acres here in 1849—naming it after the seven hills of Rome—and planted their first vines in 1851. Originally, they just wanted to avoid the high cost of importing altar wine from Europe, but by 1858, they were already winning first-prize medals! I can confirm, after a tasting and a great lunch at the Sevenhill Hotel, the quality hasn’t dipped since.
I also came across a truly legendary piece of “real estate”: a gnarled old Gum tree that’s likely over 400 years old. Back in 1839, a pioneer named John Horrocks arrived from England and actually lived in this tree! He nailed his kitchen utensils to the trunk and slept under a tarp stretched over poles. Even more amazing? The irises blooming under the tree today are said to be descendants of the original bulbs he brought all the way from Lancashire.
Next stop: Continuing south toward the Barossa—more vines and more history ahead!
