Fremantle sits right at the mouth of the Swan River and holds the title of the first area settled by the Swan River colonists back in 1829. But long before the British ships arrived, the Noongar people knew this land as Walyalup (“place of the woylie”).
The early years of the settlement were a struggle, and by the 1850s, the city’s identity took a dark turn. It became Australia’s primary destination for convicts. These prisoners were actually tasked with building the very walls that would hold them—Fremantle Prison. This massive limestone fortress is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and stepping inside is a chilling reminder of Australia’s penal past.
Sometimes called the “Fremantle Gaol,” the site is a sprawling complex of cellblocks, gatehouses, and even secret tunnels. While it was handed over to the colonial government in 1886, the “culture” of the prison remained notoriously brutal and resistant to change for over a century.
Believe it or not, the cells never had running water or toilets. Right up until it closed in 1991, prisoners were still using metal or plastic buckets. This primitive treatment, combined with growing tension, finally boiled over in a massive riot in 1988. Guards were taken hostage, and a fire caused $1.8 million in damage, signaling the beginning of the end for the facility.
Perhaps the most haunting fact of all: between 1888 and 1984, this was the only legal place of execution in Western Australia. Over 40 people met their end at the gallows here. It’s a heavy piece of history to digest, but wandering through the empty corridors today, you can still feel the weight of those 136 years of operation.
After that heavy walk through prison history, I definitely needed a change of pace—and a bit of fresh air. I made a beeline for the waterfront to check out one of Freo’s most famous modern landmarks: Little Creatures Brewery.
Located in a massive converted boat shed right on the harbor, this place is the polar opposite of the prison’s limestone cells. It’s high-energy, open-plan, and smells like hops instead of history. Sitting there with a cold pale ale, watching the sun start to dip over the Indian Ocean, was the perfect way to “shake off” the gallows and get back into the vibrant, breezy spirit of Western Australia.
From convicts to craft beer—Fremantle really does have the full spectrum of Australian life covered!
